Edward Enninful reflects on Modern Britain: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Than We Were Decades Ago.

An unexpected discovery on the London Underground in 1988 transformed the trajectory of a teenage Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the London's electric 1990s creative scene, evolving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the style editor of the publication i-D.

"It was the height of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I knew we’d be great friends. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I miss that rawness."

While Enninful may seem wistful, he is not the only one. Lately, a fond idealisation of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. However in the intervening decades, Enninful perceives a noticeable regression. "I feel, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he says. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s worldwide."

Shifting Attitudes

This change is difficult to overlook: the rise of far-right politics, the pushback against progressive values, and the return of traditional beauty standards. Where once there was the hope of the previous decade, now a more divisive political force stands as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an badge of cultural optimism, has sparked debate once more.

For Enninful, the response has consistently been to celebrate culture in all its variety. This was the guiding principle behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, including a wide range of prominent faces from literature.

"People with a voice should wield it," he says, discussing those publishing choices. "There is much discussion about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain were not a lenient country, if it did not offer my family a refuge and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I believed in. I believe this phase will end."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He finds hope in the younger generation: "They are far more conscious than we were. They analyse systemic issues – I didn't even know what that was."

His formative years would forge a trailblazing career built on fearlessness and inclusivity. Enninful set a precedent as the first man, first black man, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to take the helm at British Vogue. His time featured historic front pages showcasing people of diverse backgrounds, plus-sized women, an octogenarian, and individuals from all walks of life. Critically, sales grew.

"Ignoring large portions of the population, it’s more than that you’re not being inclusive – it’s bad for business," he states.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his key endeavour since departing his former post. He expresses a desire to continue being a "innovator".

"I’ve always questioned the status quo. I was born and raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we arrived in England, with nothing, and I was a minority. I was painfully reserved. My teachers said I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the suspicion laws … this duality gave me a unique perspective on the inside and the outside."

Defying the caricature of industry figures as brash and temperamental, Enninful is measured in tone and radiates serenity. His life has not been immune to hardship, including openly discussed battles with depression and substance use.

He has also faced significant health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, resulting in limited vision. "I endured such a dark place for two years, away from work, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s similar to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I vowed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

Curating a Cultural Era

This determination to fit into a box has led him beyond the realm that established him. He is now organising a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a group of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to evoke the decade's creative cross-pollination – and give platform to those who weren't given a spotlight at the time.

"Institutions sometimes neglected to shine a light on the right artists because they did not have the traditional credentials," he comments.

The magazine 72 itself functions with a novel approach, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "We ask, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is part of a larger creative platform."

An Unstoppable Drive

Currently, Enninful stands as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His journey, he believes, is a demonstration to the power of defying expectations.

How would the Edward of the 90s think of the his current self? He chuckles. "He would be astonished, but he’d be impressed. In those days I was a rebel. I didn't think institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."

He pauses. "Gratitude is key. We were displaced, we fled our country. I nearly lost my vision. So fear is not a factor. People have counted me out my entire life. But I am unstoppable once I’ve made up my mind to do something."